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Do you know the highest point in Charente-Maritime? It’s the Bois de Chantemerlière, south of the Seuil du Poitou, at… 173m! In other words, this is truly flat country. To get a bit of height along the coast, head to the Côte Sauvage and especially the Coubre Lighthouse for a rare experience: climbing to the top of a lighthouse…
Charente-Maritime, the Land of Lighthouses
We often tend to take the extraordinary for granted. Take Charente-Maritime, for example; its coastline boasts a multitude of lighthouses: the Chassiron lighthouse on Oléron Island, the Baleines lighthouse on Ré Island, and many other representatives of these coastal giants that offer unique excursions. This unique heritage will soon be recognized, as the Cordouan lighthouse is in the running to be included in UNESCO’s World Heritage list. Okay, the lighthouse is “geographically” in Gironde, but the local pride is definitely from Charente! In short, all this to say that Charente-Maritime offers an extraordinary experience: climbing to the top of a lighthouse.
Where is the Coubre Lighthouse Located?
So, head to the Coubre forest in the heart of the Côte Sauvage, on the Arvert peninsula, between Marennes and Royan. Once you’ve crossed the Seudre bridge, within a few kilometers, the landscapes change dramatically, and the change of scenery is complete: We then wind along a magnificent road through an incredible pine forest. The journey alone is worth it: under the sun and through its curves, the scenery just breathes vacation… cycling enthusiasts will find what they’re looking for with multiple bike paths located on the Vélodyssée.
Finally, we arrive at the foot of the day’s giant: the Coubre lighthouse, 64m tall. Suddenly, a question nags at me: Are we really in front of a lighthouse or at the foot of the rocket that will take Tintin and his friends to the moon? Its vibrant colors don’t leave us indifferent and transport us back to our childhood. As it’s already time to go up, we learn that the lighthouse was built in 1905… 1.5 km from the coast! Marine erosion has done its work, and the lighthouse now almost has its feet in the water. This observation alarms us about the fragility of this natural environment and the need to take care of the environment around us. I promise, I’ll never climb a dune again!
Climbing the Coubre Lighthouse
Now it’s time to climb the 300 steps that separate us from the summit. Without pretending to be an extreme adventurer, the climb is physical, it’s a workout, and that’s not just an expression. In fact, as a running enthusiast, the very kind reception agent tells me that a race, “l’Extrême 300,” is organized every year in the lighthouse. The goal: to climb as fast as possible. The record: one minute and two seconds. The challenge really interests me, but for now, I just need to finish this climb!
One last effort and voilà, here we are at the very top of the Coubre lighthouse. You shouldn’t suffer from vertigo when faced with the immensity of a 360-degree panorama. The site is simply superb, and we discover the extent of this national forest as well as the length of the Côte Sauvage coastline. On one side, we gaze towards the Bay of Bonne Anse, La Palmyre, then Royan. And on the other, we enjoy a sensational landscape of beaches and dunes all the way to the “Pointe Espagnole”.
A Breathtaking Panoramic View
The view of the Atlantic Ocean is breathtaking, and with the help of experts, you can even see the formation of rip currents (baïnes), which require great vigilance when swimming. “Hey, we can see the Statue of Liberty!” Even though we’re nearly 5000 km from New York, that good old joke still works. On this humorous note, it’s already time to descend through the blue opaline “snail” formed by the lighthouse stairs.
After a quick visit to the Coubre lighthouse ecomuseum, which tells the story of the “giant of light,” we head back through the forest of the same name for a final stop in Ronce-les-Bains, a charming seaside resort less than 20 minutes from the lighthouse. All these emotions have made us hungry, so it’s time to enjoy some “churros” on a terrace!
The good news is that many campsites are hidden within the Coubre forest, offering a natural setting conducive to relaxation and a change of scenery. It’s the ideal place for a family vacation, and to climb our favorite lighthouse once again.
