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During our stay in Charente-Maritime, we tasted several local products, but not yet the specialty of the Rochefort region: the jonchée. We arranged to meet Erick Jarnan, one of the last producers, at his laboratory in Saint Nazaire sur Charente, which he exceptionally agreed to open for us.
After visiting the Maison du Transbordeur in Echillais, we cycled along the path bordering the Charente, enjoying an exceptional view of the river. The Sentiers de l’Arsenal, connecting Rochefort to Port-des-Barques, are perfect for a family bike ride. We left Soubise and its dry dock, the largest in Charente-Maritime, behind us to enter the marsh, nestled in the bends of the Charente. A few cows watched us pass, and the children wondered if they were the ones providing the milk needed to make the jonchées!
A passionate individual welcomed us into his laboratory, right in the middle of making the famous jonchée. Often considered a cheese, it is nothing of the sort! This traditional, natural, preservative-free “dairy dessert,” made with local milk, can be enjoyed plain, with sugar, salted butter caramel from Île de Ré, red fruit coulis, or even a little Cognac!
A natural and preservative-free dessert!
Erick Jarnan explains that he sources his milk from neighboring farms and, following a recipe and technique inherited from his parents, wraps the processed milk in a rush mat. This rush, hand-picked in the Brouage marshes and machine-sewn, gives the jonchée its herbaceous taste and atypical shape, which is its claim to fame!
Only three producers continue to make jonchées, but our host is the only one to use natural rushes, which requires a lot of work in addition to the production itself. And yes, a small clarification: this fabulous “cheese” also owes its unique taste to its freshness and must be consumed within 3 days, which leaves our producer little time to rest!
While it’s not possible to witness its production, it’s very easy to find it in the markets of Île d’Oléron and Île de Ré, in Marennes, Rochefort, Fouras, Châtelaillon, or La Rochelle, and on the menus of the department’s finest restaurants. For decades, this producer, dedicated to his department and traditions, also delivers to the homes of his most loyal customers.
If the urge to taste these jonchées wasn’t so pressing, we would extend our walk to Île Madame! So, we returned to the campsite, where the children were eager to taste this extraordinary dairy product.
