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It’s Christmas, fairy lights decorate the streets, craft markets are popping up everywhere, and the air smells of chestnuts and mulled wine with cinnamon. In short, it’s the perfect time to visit the famous Château de Crazannes, which is adorned with a thousand lights for the occasion.
As soon as we arrived, near Saintes, we could already see the long tree-lined driveway dotted with numerous blue fairy lights. Can’t wait for nightfall! Once inside, we explored the eight-hectare park: keep, Romanesque chapel, dovecote, moats, etc. There’s really a lot to see, and the whole place has an enchanting charm.
Very quickly, we were drawn to lights coming from a first building. Inside, there was a collection of illuminated carousels and an ice floe-like display with plush polar bears, all surrounded by two magnificent snow-covered and splendidly decorated fir trees. We were as amazed as two children! In the museum of old rural objects, a multitude of handmade nativity scenes stood alongside the tools of yesteryear used by washerwomen, millers, carpenters, bakers, etc. We discovered objects previously unknown to us, like treasures that had traveled through the ages.
Getting too carried away, we almost forgot about the guided tour; quick, it’s starting!
A Mysterious Castle Straight out of a Christmas Tale
We met in front of the 16th-century North facade, with its flamboyant sculpture above the entrance door, whose decorative elements bear witness to the site’s past as a refuge for pilgrims on the Way of St. James. The guide offered us a second, utterly fascinating interpretation: scientists had reportedly taken a keen interest in it, as the sculpture was said to contain the secret of the philosopher’s stone. I turned to my friend: “Do you realize that the recipe for turning lead into gold and granting immortality might be right before our eyes?” – “Let’s take a few pictures; we’ll study it more closely tonight, my dear Watson,” he replied with an amused look.
The South facade, on the other hand, surprised us with its sobriety. We learned that a wing connecting the castle to the keep was dismantled when Roger Chaudruc purchased it at the beginning of the 20th century, to finance significant restoration work needed for this abandoned facade. The work remains unfinished, as evidenced by blocks of Crazannes stone originally intended to be transformed into gargoyles. Indeed, the history of this castle is fascinating!
“Each room plunges us into the magical world of Christmas”
Once inside, we explored the different rooms: kitchen, library, living rooms, bedrooms, guardroom, attic. Each of them was divinely decorated: fir trees, lights, gifts, snowflakes, etc. We felt completely enveloped by the magic of Christmas. Although the furniture is unfortunately no longer period-specific but comes from various centuries, we still took a leap back in time, imagining ourselves a few centuries earlier, me turning the churn handle to make butter while he kneaded bread before storing it in the kneading trough. Or even better, both of us warming up by one of the superb 16th-century fireplaces.
In fact, we’d love to spend the evening here… The guide informed us that the castle operates as a bed and breakfast during the milder season, and the keep can be rented as a family gîte. Perfect, I’ll make a note of that!
Suddenly, we came face to face with Puss in Boots, or at least a reproduction of him, engrossed in reading… his own tale! It was time to ask the question that had been burning on my lips since I arrived: why is the Château de Crazannes called the Puss in Boots Castle? The reason is simple: Charles Perrault reportedly met Jules Gouffier, Marquis de Carabaz and owner of this edifice at the time. Impressed by this man, he was said to have drawn inspiration from him for his character, the Marquis of Carabas.
A Dazzling Spectacle
The tour finished (had an hour already passed?), we were invited to go up to the keep’s terrace to best enjoy the illuminations. We climbed the stairs, and at the very top, a spectacular view unfolded before us! The Castle was dressed in its finest lights – orange, red, blue, green – sparkling with a thousand colors. An enchantment! In the gardens, magical trees, illuminated fountains, and animals of all kinds appeared: penguins, polar bears, but also panthers, and even pink flamingos! Our amazed eyes didn’t know where to look. Below the castle, we imagined the Charente river flowing peacefully through the Saintonge landscapes.
After exploring the estate far and wide, so as not to miss any detail of this magnificent spectacle, we headed back to the entrance gate, cast one last glance at this phantasmagorical place, and then returned home. While I prepared a delicious cinnamon hot chocolate, my friend lit the pine-scented candles we had bought and started the Christmas song playlist. I poured the steaming beverage into our “Merry Christmas” mugs, and we were all set! I pulled out the day’s photos, and there we were, in detective mode, dissecting the castle facade’s sculpture to try and unravel all its mysteries (and become rich and immortal!). For Christmas, I asked for two tickets to one of the Escape Games offered by Château d’Usson, a splendid Renaissance castle that also provides a treasure hunt to discover all its treasures.
I’ll have to be good for a few more days!
