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The former Poitou-Charentes region is renowned for its gastronomy, thanks to the quality of its local products: Charentais melons, goat cheeses, oysters, butter, mojhettes (white beans)… but what would the Charentes be without its Cognac vineyards? We took advantage of a visit to a cellar to participate in a tasting of Pineau des Charentes and Cognac.
80,000 hectares of vines, 6 exceptional crus across two departments… upon arriving in Charente and Charente-Maritime, you immediately understand that the landscape has been shaped for centuries by human expertise. The Cognac vineyard is even present on the islands of Ré and Oléron, which says a lot! While Cognac has enjoyed significant international renown for decades, it’s Pineau that is more favored by the French, not to mention the Charentais country wines.
Far be it from me to give you a dull presentation on Cognac; I’d rather let you discover the behind-the-scenes of this local treasure’s production. So, I headed to Saint-Sulpice-de-Royan to visit the Pineau aging cellar of Maison Jules Gautret, followed by a tasting.
Laurent and Thierry, bon vivants and connoisseurs, welcome us for a visit to the heart of the production of this famous beverage. From grape harvesting to aging, including distillation, the grape’s journey holds no more secrets for us. We quickly understand that the cellar master is the main player in this beautiful story of Cognac production. It is he who blends the different eaux-de-vie of various ages or crus. The result? A unique masterpiece every time!
We love hearing the legends surrounding Pineau: this well-known story of a 16th-century winemaker’s blunder, pouring grape must into a Cognac barrel… and thus, several years later, creating the first Pineau in history, now an essential aperitif!
We also talk about the famous “angels’ share,” this natural evaporation that escapes from the barrels and feeds a microscopic fungus that blackens the typical stone walls of the Charentes. It’s a phenomenon easily discovered when visiting the town of Cognac, for example.
“A tasting is a true journey for the senses”
The cellar tour concludes with the aging rooms and their very distinctive aromas. The rows of barrels set the tone: here, quality takes time! Now, it’s time for a tasting initiation, so you can pretend to be an expert at your next romantic dinner and impress your partner.
We quickly realize that a proper tasting isn’t improvised; it’s a matter for experts! Several steps are essential to fully appreciate the unique aromas released from each bottle. It’s a journey for the senses that begins with sight: yes, observing the wine’s color already gives a precise indication of its character. By swirling your stemmed glass like a pro, you can also see “tears” forming, a sign of higher alcohol content or a sweeter Pineau.
Next sense to awaken: smell. Before being drunk, a wine or liqueur is smelled… but not just any way! You need to position your nose in a certain way and let your imagination do the rest. To the question “What do you feel you’re smelling?”, unusual answers poured in: while one person thought they smelled cinnamon, others spoke of citrus or even cheese! The good news is that there are no wrong answers; everyone perceives scents in their own way, based on their habits and preferences…
Now, for the taste, with the initial sampling. You clench your teeth and let a sip of Cognac slide between your tongue and palate as if it were a mouthwash (well, almost), before either swallowing or spitting it out (like the pros, we tell you!) to release the most subtle aromas. And here, the magic happens! Sometimes the flavor lingers, persisting in the mouth, sometimes less so. Sometimes you like it, sometimes less. It’s a matter of taste and personality. Some prefer powerful wines, others don’t. It’s an opportunity to chat with your neighbor and compare your impressions. We also discuss food pairings during a meal: a piece of goat cheese, for example. Here too, you should try new combinations and not limit yourself to the well-known safe bets. For a moment, you feel like a sommelier, and it’s quite enjoyable.
The visit is already over; it’s time to leave, for some with a souvenir bottle in a “pocket” (a tote bag for those not bilingual in French-Saintongeais!). I feel like I’ve learned a lot and would like to continue exploring this unique expertise. Throughout the Charentais region, there are many small producers and trading houses that welcome visitors, and which can be found on the “Etapes du Cognac” website.
Of course, alcohol is dangerous for your health and should be consumed in moderation!
