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Charente-Maritime is renowned as a land rich in history. Its diverse heritage is open to campers. From Saint-Jean d’Angle to Trizay, we spent the day exploring the remnants of a glorious and popular era that sparks the imagination: the Middle Ages!
“Honey, today we’re off to 1192!” No, it’s not a remake of the cult film “Les Visiteurs.” No, it’s not a virtual reality trip. Nor is it the new hit series from Netflix or the latest trendy reality TV show. Today, we’re making the most of our Charente-Maritime holiday to take a stroll through time. Hear ye, hear ye, good folk, ladies and gentlemen, we’re heading to the Middle Ages, in the heart of the Saintonge plains!
For this new adventure, we’re heading to the fortified castle of Saint-Jean d’Angle, ideally located between Royan, Rochefort, and the Île d’Oléron, and classified as a Historic Monument. In this charming Saintonge village, a little gem is hidden: a magnificent medieval enclosure dating from the 12th century, fully restored by a passionate family. The fortified castle of Saint-Jean d’Angle belonged at the time to the Lusignan family, an illustrious lineage that even held the titles of Kings of Jerusalem and Cyprus! Reputed to be impregnable, the fortified castle then defended the surrounding salt marshes and “white gold,” the wealth of the lord in power!
The only medieval theme park in Charente-Maritime
I didn’t learn this story from books about the Charentes region, but directly from the passionate owners, the Rousselots. Indeed, the fortified castle of Saint-Jean d’Angle is not just a simple ruin that you quickly visit. It’s a real theme park for all ages, centered around the Middle Ages. You can spend up to 3 hours there without noticing the time fly by. It must be said that the activities are numerous, fun, and accessible to the whole family. Right from the entrance, the tone is set: “If you want to dress up as a Knight of the Round Table, it’s immediately to your right.” No time to lose, in less than a minute, I was transformed into a valiant servant, no less!
After an impressive demonstration of an English trebuchet, we found ourselves wandering through the various interpretive areas. The presence of the Occitana feudal troupe adds character to the whole experience. You can see real weapons from the era, a coin minting workshop, all explained by perfectly costumed enthusiasts. But we are determined here, with a quest in mind, our absolute Grail: to finish the great riddle game offered by the fortified castle! Question by question, we then discover life from that era thanks to easy-to-understand explanatory panels. Several new features have been added to enhance the site: a labyrinth, a motte-and-bailey castle, a barefoot sensory trail… we don’t see the hours pass, and the experience is enriching. After a quick tour of the shop (“Please, honey, I want to buy a sword!”), we hit the road aboard our steel horse for a good meal, then to experience another atmosphere: the life of the monks in Trizay, still in the Middle Ages…
Total Change of Scenery in the Gardens of Compostela
In the heart of Charente-Maritime, between fields and forests, we arrive at the Romanesque Abbey of Trizay, which stands here in the Saintonge countryside, proving that rural life at the time was already very rich. This Benedictine priory was founded in the 11th century. Magnificently restored in the 1990s, this architectural complex now houses a renowned contemporary art center. The former apse of the church, the chapter house and its vaults, the dormitory, and the refectory are all moving traces of monastic life at the time within Trizay Abbey. One can still feel a certain serenity within its walls. The visit takes place in silence, with only the guide’s voice soothing us and recounting the daily lives of these men of faith. We also enjoy the current contemporary art exhibition featuring the works of a renowned and talented artist.
Before returning to our campsite, we decide to visit the Gardens of Compostela, located just a kilometer from the abbey, by the Lac du Bois Fleuri in Trizay. This floral park pays tribute to the pilgrims who travel to Galicia. By the way, we were told that the Routes of Santiago de Compostela are classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, particularly the church of Aulnay de Saintonge. Well, well, that smells like a future blog post!
Let’s get back to our main topic: the Gardens of Compostela. In a word: exotic. The Hispano-Moorish architecture transports us through the splendors of the Mediterranean: olive groves, rose gardens, water jets… for a moment, we imagine ourselves in Seville, Granada, or Cordoba. A short stroll that’s well worth the detour, all for just a few euros.
The three places visited belong to the network of the “Historic Route of the Treasures of Aunis and Saintonge,” which brings together nearly thirty sites across Charente-Maritime. This day offered us a welcome journey through time. It’s a safe bet that we’ll soon visit the other beautiful sites in the network to tell you the greatest legends of our lands.
