Pierre
Weekend Explorer
I recently took advantage of a stopover in Angoulême to visit the Comics Museum, which is an integral part of the Cité Internationale, home to its world-renowned festival every year. So, let’s head to the banks of the Charente to visit a place that might bring back some childhood memories…
Ah, Angoulême, with its upper town, its Saint Pierre Cathedral, its gentle way of life, and its… walls painted in tribute to comic strip characters! But why does the Charente Prefecture have this unique feature? Simply because Angoulême is THE French capital of Comics, following a local industrial specialty: paper… so, let’s head to the museum dedicated to Comics, which is housed in beautifully restored former wine cellars, on the banks of the Charente. Crossing the river on a pedestrian walkway, we come face to face with Corto Maltese… or rather, his statue. The atmosphere is already set, and the eagerness to discover the museum’s interior is palpable.
Upon entering the exhibition, we discover a sober, very contemporary decor that blends well with the classic exterior. There isn’t a sound; you can feel that the joy of reading is paramount here. Immediately, I begin my visit with the first temporary exhibition, which highlights the work of the French genius René Goscinny, who brought to life the adventures of Asterix, Lucky Luke, Le Petit Nicolas… Here, we discover a richly illustrated exhibition that showcases the author’s fascination with cinema and American classics that influenced his characters, who would themselves be successfully adapted for the big screen.
Among Goscinny’s original sketches, script pages, and costumes, we happily rediscover childhood memories of comics read dozens of times and iconic scenes etched in our minds. This exceptionally rich exhibition is on display until January 2, 2019.


“What’s great about the ninth art is that it speaks to all generations”
Other temporary exhibitions are also presented during my visit to the Comics Museum, alongside the permanent exhibition that traces the history of Comics. What’s great about the ninth art is that it speaks to everyone, to all generations. Who hasn’t read a comic in their life? While times change, the pleasure of reading remains. Everyone can marvel at one of the museum’s 10,000 original pieces. I personally loved seeing original plates from Les Pieds Nickelés, Pif Gadget, and Tintin again. To prevent deterioration of the collections, a rotation occurs every 3 months, allowing visitors to discover new items each quarter.
Naturally, childhood memories resurface. A reading area is also available, along with costumes for the little ones and ‘L’Atelier’ (The Workshop), explaining the different stages of creation. It’s a pleasure to stroll around and learn about this sometimes little-known art, with its recent but rich history.
The last essential stop on the visit: the bookstore. Over 30,000 titles are available here, as well as numerous merchandise items. It’s very difficult to leave without a comic book in hand. The desire to read or start a new collection overrides reason!
The Small Paper Museum is also Worth a Visit
Located in the former ‘Le Nil’ paper mills, the paper museum traces the incredible history of paper manufacturing, which was then the main industry of greater Angoulême, on the banks of the Charente. A visit to this small museum, located just a few dozen meters from the Cité Internationale de la Bande Dessinée, is truly worthwhile for anyone interested in the city’s history and how paper is made. And by the way, how is paper made? A free permanent exhibition in the heart of the rehabilitated former factory answers this question. Another room is dedicated to the art of paper. You can also find an art library there.
Angoulême, near the Cognac vineyards, deserves a more in-depth stroll to enjoy its exceptional heritage, its pedestrian streets, and its almost ‘Italian’ way of life. To stay on the comics theme, there’s even a special circuit that winds through the city, showcasing its most remarkable murals. We’ll definitely be back soon!